Walking Aradena gorge

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The new school year was about to start. Should we have a little late summer trip before the start? Of course we should!

We had also been planning for a while to test out the van as a campervan of sorts.

So we spent some time on Sunday getting out some camping stuff. Then on Monday morning we loaded the van with everything, including the kayak and one e-bike.

We set off for Chora Sfakion and got there around lunchtime. We stopped at the bakery for sandwiches and pastries, and after that some ice-cream! We decided to go and walk Aradena gorge in the afternoon.

Aradena is a pretty wild place, some distance from Chora Sfakion which is itself a good distance from most other places in Crete.

There is an impressive metal and wood bridge that crosses over the gorge. It shakes and rumbles every time a vehicle goes over, with the sound carrying a considerable distance.

Today Aradena is not a very populated village. There is a canteen on the other side of the crossing, for the hikers who come here all the way to walk the wild gorge. There are many abandoned houses falling apart. We also met a good number of wasps, both outside and inside the gorge.

Before the walk, however, we drove down the long, winding downhill road to Livaniana, towards the exit of the gorge. We parked the e-bike there, locked to a fence, to use at the end of the walk to go back and retrieve the car.

After all the preparation, we drove over the bridge to find the beginning of the path. At this point it was 4pm, and we knew we only had a few hours before sunset.

To descend into the gorge, we walked a path that from the side looks carved in stone on the gorge wall, but it is really well kept. Then we walked on the riverbed, passing under the famous bridge, hearing all the cars rumbling.

We walked on the stony riverbed, over big boulders. We took a detour up the side on some stone steps, with an impressive view from the top. Then back down. We met other walkers during the first half of the excursion. Then it was just us. Still more boulders, and more walking. Goats and ravens. Some falling stones. A big cave. Signs for old paths to other villages, Livaniana and Agios Ioannis.

It was mostly shady and cool in the gorge, but pretty still. Some dips were pretty hot though, especially getting close to the sea.

After about 3 hours, feeling tired, we saw the sea! And in another 5 minutes we were on Marmara beach. The sun had just set. Giulia and I jumped in the sea for a quick swim, as people were leaving the tiny beach on taxi boats. We saw big groups of lionfish, 6 here, 3 there. They are really invading the Cretan sea. We saw them for the first time in Falasarna about a month ago, and we have seen them since many more times in Falasarna, in Sougia and now here.

I rushed up the path from Marmara to Livaniana to get the bike. I almost run and it took a good 20 minutes. In the twilight, I jumped on the e-bike and gave it all up the steep hill. It was a beautiful ride, with the soft dusk light below me as I ascended the hairpin bends. I was sweating exhilaration and effort. Towards the top it was dark enough and I was fast enough that I almost lost control on a bend, going up what must have been 15% slope.

I rode over the bridge in semi-darkness, invisible, announced by the rumble. I loaded the bike on the car and drove again back down the same road, to meet the girls. They had walked up the path to Livaniana, then made it another km or so up the road. We finished the day with a glorious dinner at a taverna in Anopoli, with super tasty vegetables and the best appetite after walking (and cycling) for hours!

 
Total distance: 6.42 km
Max elevation: 574 m
Min elevation: 4 m
Total climbing: 136 m
Total descent: -704 m
Total time: 03:05:16
Download file: Walk-AradenaGorge-Short09092019.gpx

E-bike ride on the South coast: Paleochora – Sougia

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The South coast has been beckoning for some time, I have been wanting to do some cycling there for a while. The road between Paleochora and Sougia promised to be spectacular.

Studying the map, I wasn’t sure it was paved all the way through. Not a big deal either case, as we loaded the trusty Hillmaster electric mountain bike on the van.

We also planned to do some of the cycling together, and loaded bikes for all the family. Sofia is still too short to ride one of our electric bikes, she rides a plain mountain bike that was originally Giulia’s. This limits our range together a bit, and we decided to pedal the first flat part together until the road becomes too steep.

We drove from home in the morning, on the mostly quiet mountain roads from Kissamos. In about an hour, we were buying lunch from the bakery in Paleochora.

We cycled through town, then along the coast going East. After a couple of km, we hit the hill that goes up to Anidri village. We tackled it for a good while, until the girls had had enough and turned back. I switched on the motor, and set off.

The road climbed regularly, up and up and up. I kept the assistance always on the lowest level, Eco, I wanted to make an effort! I cycled through Anidri village, I zig-zagged on. Low Mediterranean scrub everywhere, sea views in the distance. I passed the village of Prodromi, the road was still paved all the way. Some trees in the small valleys, plane and carob trees.

I was getting higher, the air was cooler. Gavdos island was there, in the hazy distance. Pine trees on the roadside now! I met 4 cars in 15km, about one hour of cycling. The col was marked by a blue and white church, stereotypical of Greece but not a common sight in Crete. Shortly after, I rejoined the ‘main’ road going from Paleochora.

On my right, the valley side facing North was now covered by a proper tree forest, an interesting change! I took a break for some water and banana in Rodovani, wondering how far behind the girls driving to Sougia I would be.

Then I launched myself into a full speed descent towards Sougia. Corner after corner, I tried to slow down as little as possible, touching a maximum speed of 60 km/h. Pines on both sides of the road, until I reached the valley bottom with the river bed on my left, marking the arrival in Sougia. I must have done the 15km in half an hour.

Sougia was hot and sticky. The sun was not shining very strong, but the air was not really moving. I found the girls already cooling down in the sea.

Fiona came to meet me. We had a picnic all together in the shade of a tamerisk behind the beach. After food, we moved back to the shore for a refreshing swim.

Even the sea was hazy! We swam along the beach, going East, towards the big rocks just a few metres off shore. There were continuous changes in temperature in the sea. Cool, hazy surface, a warmer layer of water below, then cool again at some depth. We spotted some small groupers and some lionfish hiding between some rocks on the bottom.

We found some waves between the rocks. We swam around them, the water was clearer here. We saw plenty of fish, damselfish and many very big and bright saddled seabreams. Cretan parrotfish, of course. We passed some submerged rocks, circled the big rock sticking out and swam back. A beautiful swim.

We walked into town for an ice-cream, then drove home.

 

Total distance: 33.61 km
Max elevation: 759 m
Min elevation: -9 m
Total climbing: 876 m
Total descent: -856 m
Total time: 02:16:25
Download file: Ebike-Paleochora-Sougia-Short05092019.gpx

A day in Antikythira

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On a hot July day, we embarked on a day trip to the small island of Antikythira.

E-bikes in Antikythira!

E-bikes in Antikythira!

Antikythira is really a small, wild rock in the middle of the sea, between Crete and the Peloponnese.

An old resident, with an Aussie intonation from a lifetime spent downunder, recounted a condensed, local version  of the island’s origin myth for us.

God was creating the land, mainland Greece. He was using soil to make the big, vast plains. He flicked a few of the remaining small rocks around in the sea. A tiny one landed here; thus our island was born.

We took with us our new favourite mean of transport, our e-bikes. We would have some help on the steep local roads.

When you arrive in Antikythira, you are greeted by a few locals expecting people or stuff from the 3-times-a-week ferry. Residents seem bemused to receive visitors, but they are quick to be welcoming, offer information and generally show friendliness. We struck more conversations in Antikythira in one day than in a week of regular life back home.

On landing, you are also instantly offered a taste of the landscape. The only road from the harbour and main town goes up the steep hillside, with a slope somewhere between 10 and 20%. The vegetation is low bushes and climbers. Rocks and red earth. Even the goats are sparse.

The power of our legs combined with the electric motor, makes the climb doable. When we get to the top, we opt to visit a small bay a little way North of Potamos village, on the way to the dwelling of Patakiana, where the map shows we might be able to get in the water from the rocks.

We cycle up and down the main road inland, then take a turn and soon we’re on a dirt road in good conditions. After a little while, we park our bikes and descend walking towards the coast. The rocks are dark and hot, but walkable. The sea is beautiful, calm, cool and clear. There’s a small traditional fishing boat in the bay, laying nets, and nobody or nothing else.

We jump in the sea for a swim all together, in awe of the wilderness surrounding us. After the family swim, I set out swimming towards the small rocks out at sea visible from the shore, about 700m away, expecting good snorkelling grounds. I am rewarded by shoals of countless fish around the shallow rocky reef on the edge of the tiny island. There’s not a wave, but a strong current is pushing against the steep side of the reef. I swim around the rocks, along the sheer underwater cliff on the Eastern side. I find a gap between the rocks and swim through it, getting back to the sheltered, main-island-facing side with its shallow underwater rocks.

After our swim, we have our picnic on the dark rocks. Then we decide to go see the other side of the island. We retrace our steps on the ebikes for a while, then turn towards the scenic bay of Kamarela. This is an enclosed, rocky bay on the West side of Antikythira, with postcard-worth views of rock arches from the top and an exit to the sea. We find some shade on the tiny beach and go snorkelling again. We venture through the exit out in the open sea, where the sea-bottom drops steeply as to remind us of our limits. We stay close and get back after seeing fish, sea snails, crabs, shrimps, starfish.

We hear more stories, about the Italian and German viewing posts in the area, from a local shepherd. We decide to leave exploring those paths, and the rest of the island, for another time.

Back in the main town, we eat some delicious food at the local taverna, again peppered with some local stories and conversations with the only other fellow visitors we have seen around.

After dinner, we use the spare energy to walk to the church at the top of the town. We absorb the view of the small bay as the day ends, anticipating the appearance of the ferry that will soon take us home.

 

We promise to return for more adventures.

A track of my swim around the little offshore rocks:

 

Krios – Elafonissi Crete South Coast Hike

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On a warm, late June day, we embarked on a family trip, with David and Sophie, to walk part of the path between Paleochora and Elafonissi.

The E4 pathway, that crosses all Crete from East to West, runs along this wonderful stretch of coast. I have been eyeing to walk it for a while, and the time felt right. The weather forecast was promising, with temperatures in the high 20s, a good breeze and low humidity.

The proper path starts from Krios, by a small pebbly beach a few km West of Paleochora.

The views are awesome. There’s a first climb with views to Elafonissi, followed by a quick descent to Viena. Around the well sheltered bay lies an ancient temple with stone columns, and a small beach for a refreshing dip. We also meet other hikers with very heavy-looking backpacks, equipped for multi-day hikes. We wonder how well they cope. We are only carrying small day rucksack with a few kilos, and we sweat easily every time we hit some ascending slope, which is often.

After Viena, the path is even more spectacular. It climbs up again towards a small church. Views of the junipers around Kedrodassos, Elafonissi in the distance, tropical beach settings with turquoise waters. Small break at the church, we see more heavy-loaded hikers. The path gets narrow, we walk around parts exposed to a wind that comes in strong gusts.

We get back down to sea level, longing for another dip in the sea, but looking for a good spot to have our lunch break. In the heat of the moment, we miss a turn and walk a bit further. We walk back and understand that the passage is through a small gorge, which brings us right down to the coast. We find a perfect cove and have our picnic.

The sea and the snorkelling are beautiful here. The water is amazingly clear and feels really cold, especially compared to the outside air temperature.

After lunch, we need to pick up our pace. The only bus to take us back to Paleochora leaves in about one hour, and we still have a few km to go. We walk through the surprisingly busy beaches around Kedrodassos. Clearly Kedrodassos is no secret anymore. Most people drive the bad dirt road from Elafonissi and park just above the beach. Understandably, we meet few people walking now, it’s 3pm.

The juniper trees put up a display of interestingly curved shapes and dark wood, in contrast to the clear sands. They offer little shade though, they are too low.

After the last rocks, we reach the mooring for the boat going to Paleochora, but it’s not running today, too windy. We walk through the car park which now feels really hot and find the bus. It takes a while for our bodies to cool down. The bus takes the winding roads back to Paleochora, then I will take another bus to pick up the car from Krios.

The walk is well worth it. Next time in cooler conditions!

Learning to ride

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Learning to cycle

Isn’t this fun?

I’m sure that, one day, the time we spent learning to ride a bike will be appreciated. The bikes will be loved, riding will become a paragon of all things easy. The expression “Like riding a bike” will take on the same meaning as “Piece of cake”.

For now, we’ll make do with Sofia’s expression, showing all her appreciation.

Olive picking in Kissamos

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Picking olives near Kissamos

Picking olives near Kissamos

Yet another year of home made olive oil!

Thanks to Jens and Tina, who kindly agreed to let us pick the olives on their land in their absence, we spent a few merry days in the grove with the long long stick.

I think we totalled 7-8 mornings of olive picking, not all consecutive and never more than 2-3 hours at a time, to keep it easy.

The harvest was a bit meagre considered the effort, which felt like a lot of effort. However, it was worth every drop of it.

We did inquire about getting an electric, rotating picker, but we considered:

Rotating picker, quantity “1”: 200 € +

Cheapest-ass generator, qty 1: 300€ =

500€  <——>  50€ estimated value of final produce (which turned out to be optimistic)

Ergo, not worth the investment.

Instead, we used our hands and the long long stick.

In the end we managed to get one very full + one very empty bag of olives, about 50-60kg in total. Unfortunately we didn’t weigh the big sack, so we don’t have the exact weight.

Olive Pickers

Olive pickers having a break

Not that it matters much anyway. We went straight to the press after the end of our last harvest day. The olive presser informed us (after the fact, of course) that he had to mix our bags with someone else’s, because of the small size. Keep in mind that most farmers here produce an order of magnitude or two more, that is tens or even hundreds of bags. Anyway, we contributed maggots, and someone else surely contributed a bit of sprayed poison to this particular mix. Not sure how the presser calculated how much oil our bags produced either.

In any case, we got 12.5 liters of fresh olive oil!

Tasting freshly pressed olive oil really is one of the joys of life. Doubly so when it’s your own courtesy of Jens and Tina, actually triply so because it’s the fruit of sharing! Plus, a bonus because it’s all hand picked.

How good is that?

Antikythera

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We can see the small island of Antikythera quite often from the West side of Crete, especially when going over to Falasarna.

Antikythira is famous for the Mechanism of Antikythera coming from an ancient Hellenistic rich shipwreck.

The island is also on one of the main migratory routes for birds between Africa and northern Europe, and it hosts an important bird observatory from the Hellenic Ornithological Society.

We soon discovered that the only ferry service from Kissamos to the Peloponnese stops in Antikythera.

After the heat of the summer was mostly over, we decided we could do a family day trip there on our bikes.

On Wednesday, the ferry leaves at 7:30am and returns to Kissamos for 11:30pm. Perfect for a full day on the island!

Learning to swim

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The time has come for Giulia and Sofia to learn swimming.

Underwater somersaults from Manuel Coleman on Vimeo.

Giulia and Sofia having fun in the sea

We started going to the beach early, in April and May we were already testing the waters, which were pretty cold then.

One day out of the blue Giulia decided that she could put her head in and swim. And off she went.

Sofia took a little bit longer, but not much. In June they went 3 times a week for a kids swimming course to the pool in Chania. And one afternoon Sofia realized she could put her head in water and she’d float and swim, and she hasn’t stopped since.

Now we go for little swims around the bay together. Sometimes they take their inflatable floats and sometimes their kicking boards. Giulia is learning to swim without aid and she’s not afraid of the depth, and she’s learning to take breaths while she swims. Sofia is still wary when she’s out of her depth, but she’ll give it a go.

Their favourite game at the moment though is going vertical upside down, and Sofia loves underwater somersaults!

I am trying to master monofin swimming, and getting more and more flexible. Also at the age of 38, a couple of weeks ago I got equalizing at last, so I have started free diving.

Fiona, well, the water is so warm here that even she goes swimming at times, and mostly without girlie screaming!

A couple of months ago I saw a turtle in Viglia and got very excited. Got an underwater camera, and I haven’t seen any since!

Camping night

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Beach dinner

Beach dinner

We went camping!

Fiona had a day off, so we packed our camping stuff and as she came back from work we drove South.

After careful studying of the wind, we decided to go to Elafonisi.

Sunset in Elafonisi

Sunset in Elafonisi lagoon

We got there at dusk. We sat on the rocks by some natural pools and enjoyed the beautiful sunset as we were eating our yummy bean salad. On the opposite side of the sky, the full moon was rising. Giugiu and Sofia were very excited and performed some full moondance.

We put up our tent just behind the beach, not far from a bunch of other campers, some with campervans, some with kids, some with bicycles.

Moondance

Moondance

Before bedtime, we looked at the nightsky all together, identified some constellations, a planet, some planes. There was a cool breeze, Fiona and I lied on the mat under the sky for a while before retiring to the not-really warmth of the tent.

The morning came fast, sunrays hitting our thin walls that had become still overnight.

Breakfast table

Breakfast table

We set the natural table and had a beach breakfast.

After packing, we walked to the little island. We were among the first people to get to the small coves looking East along Elafonisi. No wind, hot sun, incredibly clear water. We sat by a big rocky mushroom that would provide good shade later. And we all ran in for a beautiful morning swim. Giugiu practised her recently learned front crawl technique, and demonstrated how she’s now comfortable with her face in the water. She was looking for little fish, together with Sofia who was scouting with her head well above the surface! We also played with the ball a bit.

In the morning

In the morning

Fiona had a little swim. I tried the big wetsuit jacket from Bruno on, swam with my crutch up my throat for a while, and decided never again. I was warm but really uncomfortable and very short of breath. I had a second swim just with goggles which I enjoyed a lot more. Fiona was recognized and emphatically greeted as the famous receptionist by some hotel guests. More and more people started trickling in, lots of Italians. It must have been noon when we left, still exhilarated. We stopped at a restaurant near the monastery on the way back, where we had some good small fried fish, parrot and other. Then we slowly made our way back in the car, taking the coastal road from Stomio through Livadia up to Kampos, fantasizing about spending the whole summer living the simple life in this remote and beautiful part of the island.